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I recently checked two Harumi Kurihara books out of the library. She’s the home-cooking star of Japan and I wanted to explore her recipes. Tonight I cooked 4 of them – with help from BN and my visiting sister GC, and they came out quite well. The only thing that went wrong was burning the first batch of sesame seeds but luckily I had more on hand.

But I’m glad we were able to pull off 4 dishes for one meal, because I see a unifying aspect of Japanese cuisine, with all its diversity, in that there is always a variety. Either you are presented with a series of exquisite little portions, or there is a delightful assortment of goodies in a compartmented box. (Bento!) I’m not sure my family-style spread looks authentic, but the flavors were good and we all had plenty to eat.

The funny thing is that when GC and I went to the Asian market this morning, they were closed for vacation. So, I bought miso at the supermarket and all the other seasonings and things I already had on hand!

Rice with Fresh Ginger
From Everyday Harumi

1 1/4 c Japanese sushi rice
2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
3 oz shimeji mushrooms (I used shitakes), tough stems removed and sliced
1 1/2 c dashi stock (I used an instant tea-bag type of packet)
1 Tbsp light soy sauce
1 Tbsp mirin
1 tsp sake (I didn’t have any, so I omitted it…)
salt – to taste
nori seaweed – to serve, optional

Wash the rice in cold water. Drain it in a strainer and let it stand for 10-15 minutes. In a large liquid measuring cup, add the dashi stock to the soy, mirin, and sake until it makes 1 1/2 cups liquid. I used my rice cooker, but for stovetop prep, put the rice in a heavy saucepan, add the ginger, mushrooms, and dashi stock mixture. Put a tight-fitting lid on the pan and place over high heat. When the liquid comes to a boil, turn the heat down low. After cooking for 10-12 minutes, turn off the heat and leave for a further 10 minutes, keeping the lid on. Stir the rice, add a pinch of salt if desired, and serve garnished with some nori seaweed.

Eggplant “Dengaku” Style
Adapted from Harumi’s Japanese Home Cooking

This eggplant dish is melt-in-your-mouth delicious. I’ve adapted it to my preferred method of cooking eggplant, roasting.

1 large eggplant
2 Tbsp sunflower or vegetable oil
3 Tbsp hatcho miso (or substitute red miso)
2 Tbsp sugar
2 Tbsp mirin
1 Tbsp sake (I subbed rice vinegar)
toasted sesame seeds to garnish

Preheat the oven to 400°

To make the dengaku miso sauce, combine the miso, sugar, mirin, and sake in a small saucepan. Stir over medium heat until thickened and smooth.

Cut the eggplant in half, and then run a knife around the inside of the eggplant, loosening the skin from the flesh. Score the flat surface with a lattice pattern.

Brush each cut side with 1 Tbsp of oil, and place cut side down on a non-stick or foil-lined baking pan. Bake for 10 minutes or until well-browned. Turn the eggplants cut side-up, and brush liberally with the miso sauce. Return to the oven until the sauce is hot and bubbly, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Chicken with Soy and Balsamic Dressing
From Harumi’s Japanese Home Cooking

Marinate 1 lb boneless chicken thigh or breast meat (cut in bite size pieces) in 2 T soy sauce, 1 T balsamic vinegar, 1 clove garlic sliced, and coarsely ground black pepper for 30 minutes.

Saute 1/2 cabbage, cut in 4 thick wedges, in a mixture of oil and butter. Season with salt and pepper. Saute the chicken with its marinade and serve on top of cabbage. Top with a handful of fresh basil leaves.

Sesame Salad Dressing
From Harumi’s Japanese Home Cooking

Combine & mix well: 2 T sesame paste (or tahini), 2 T ground toasted white sesame seeds, 2 T dashi stock, 1 T rice vinegar, 1 T soy sauce, 1 T superfine sugar, salt and hot pepper to taste.

We made a simple salad of red lettuce, finely grated carrots (an tip from Harumi), crisp cucumber from the farmer’s market, and green onions.

I was struck by an ingredient that’s very common in Harumi’s cooking – freshly ground toasted sesame seeds. I’m going to have to get a larger mortar and pestle…

We’ve been grilling a lot this summer. Tonight BN grilled a couple of chicken skewers to upgrade my standby stir-fry recipe. (Plus the day’s farmers’ market haul.) It was delicious!

Grilled Chicken with Stir-Fried Veggies (serves 3-4)

1 lb boneless skinless chicken thighs, cut into small pieces
Marinate in a mixture of the following, in a covered dish:
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup rice vinegar
3-4 cloves minced garlic
1-inch chunk fresh ginger, minced
2 T sugar
1 t toasted sesame oil
1/2 t red pepper flakes
1 T hoisin sauce (optional)
1 T mirin (Japanese sweet rice cooking wine, optional)
1 T cornstarch

Meanwhile, prep your veggies:
Broccoli crowns and stems (peel them for a crisp addition)
Carrots, quartered lengthwise and cut diagonally into sticks
Sugar snap peas or snow peas, trimmed
Red bell pepper, cut into strips
1 bunch of greens such as bok choi or chard, sliced into strips
Small handful green onions, sliced

1-2 T cooking oil (I like refined sesame)

Steamed rice, to serve.

Drain the chicken, reserving the marinade. Thread the chicken onto skewers and grill over high heat to sear and then lower heat until cooked through.

Heat 1 T oil in a large skillet over medium high, add the broccoli and a splash of water. Cover the pan and let the broccoli steam for a minute or two, then remove the lid and let the extra water evaporate. Remove the broccoli to a large covered dish. Add a bit more oil and the carrots. Let them sizzle and steam for a bit, then add the bell pepper and cook a bit more. Add the peas and stir until heated, just a minute or less. Remove to the bowl. (Note: if using bok choi, I would add it at the same time as the bell pepper.)

Add the reserved marinade to the pan, and the chard, if using. Stir until the chard is wilted and the sauce is thickened. Cover and simmer until the chard is tender.

When the chicken is done, slide it off the skewers and into the bowl with the veggies. Pour the sauce with greens over all, add green onions, and stir until well-combined. Serve immediately over steamed rice.

I bought 3 big bunches of herbs from the farmers’ market – basil, parsley, and cilantro. Here’s a tip for storing herbs: clean the stray leaves and/or dirt from the stems, trimming if needed, and set the bunch in a glass or tall plastic tub (like from yogurt, those ones are taking over my house), with an inch or so of water, and a plastic bag loosely tied over the leaves. Parsley and cilantro will keep this way fairly well for several weeks. Basil on the other hand, you must use within several days. Only one thing to do: make pesto.

This time I made two batches – one classic Italian style with olive oil and pine nuts, with basil and parsley, and one Asian-inspired with basil and cilantro, peanuts, sesame oil, and lime juice.

Stored in small portions in the freezer (again the yogurt tubs, this time the single-serving size), all you have to do is boil some noodles, cook some veggies and/or meat, and toss with the pesto (thawed, of course.) An easy noodle bowl for dinner.

Cilantro Pesto (makes 1 cup pesto)

1 cup torn basil leaves
1 cup cilantro leaves
1 lime, zested and juiced
1/2 cup roasted unsalted peanuts
1 T toasted sesame oil
1/4 cup canola or regular sesame oil
1/2 t red pepper flakes

Place all the ingredients in the blender and process until fairly smooth. Divide into portions in small airtight containers and store in the freezer.

Black Beans with Orange and Chipotle
Adapted from Blue Eggs and Yellow Tomatoes by Jeanne Kelley

Serves 6

1 lb dry black beans
2-4 slices of bacon
1 large onion, chopped
4-6 garlic cloves, minced
3 bay leaves
Zest and juice of one orange
1-2 tsp minced canned chipotle in adobo
1 tsp red wine vinegar
Salt & pepper

To serve:
Steamed rice
Grated cheese
Avocado
Sour cream
Chopped veggies such as tomatoes, red onions, green onions, radishes, cilantro
Lime or lemon juice
Tortilla chips

I’ve been wanting to cook more beans (way too easy to open cans!) and when I saw the recipe in this inspiring cookbook (my sister HN had checked it out from the library) I decided to try it. Oddly, it didn’t instruct me to soak the beans, just cook them for 1.5 hours. That sounded like a recipe for rocks, so I turned to trusty Cook’s Illustrated, a recent issue featured Cajun Red Beans and Rice, for detailed instructions about preparing the beans.

In a large bowl, dissolve 3 T salt in 4 quarts water. Pick over the beans, and add them to the water – soak at room temperature at least 8 hours and up to 24. Drain and rinse them when ready to cook.

In a soup pot or Dutch oven, cook the bacon until crisp. Remove the strips and crumble them to add back in later. Add the onions, and cook until softened. Add the garlic and cook and stir a minute or two. Add the beans, bacon, bay leaf, orange zest, 1 tsp salt, and 7 cups water. (Note: I used 8 cups as the recipe calls for, and the result was basically a thick soup. I was wanting more of a baked-bean consistency, so next time I will try less, or perhaps leave the lid off the pot to let some evaporate. But I’m cautious of not adding enough water, the beans won’t soften all the way if they don’t cook in enough liquid. On the other hand, things thicken up some once the beans are fully cooked. So there’s a balance to strike here…)

Bring the pot to a boil, then reduce the heat to a steady simmer. After about an hour, or when the beans are just tender, stir in the orange juice, chipotle, and vinegar. Stir these items in well, taste, and adjust the seasoning. Cook, uncovered, for another 30 minutes or so, to thicken up the stew.

Serve over rice with toppings of your choice.

This sandwich reminds me of my favorite lunch from Zoccoli’s in Santa Cruz. I think this version is even better, though – fresh ingredients and hot off the grill. Great picnic food.

Grilled Chicken Pesto Sandwiches

Boneless, skinless chicken breasts: optionally brined for at least 1 hour
Ciabatta rolls
Red bell pepper
Sweet onion
Provolone cheese
Pesto
Olive oil (I used my Misto sprayer, it works great for picnics)
Salt & Pepper

Brush or mist the chicken with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cut the rolls in half and keep in a bag until ready to toast. Cut the bell pepper into wedges and thread onto skewers. Slice the onion into 1-inch rings and thread onto skewers. Mist the veggies with olive oil and sprinkle with salt.

On the grill, the chicken will probably finish first, so start the veggies earlier if you wish. Put the chicken over high heat for a short while, until grill marks appear, then lower the heat (or move to the cool side of the grill) and cover to cook through. Keep an eye on the veggies and make sure they brown evenly without too much charring.

Mist or brush the bread with olive oil and place oil-side down on the grill, until golden.

Assemble the sandwiches: Spread pesto on the bread, slice the chicken and layer it on, add cheese, peppers, and onion. Enjoy the scenery as you devour your delicious sandwich.

Here’s a recipe to let that beautiful bunch of fresh-from-the-farmers-market beets take center stage for your dinner – greens and all.

Creamy Pasta, Beans, and Greens with Roasted Vegetables
Serves 3-4

1 bunch (4 or 5) small to medium beets, with greens
4 to 6 small carrots
1 T olive oil
8 oz radiatori or other short pasta
15 oz can white beans
2 T butter
4-6 cloves garlic, sliced
1/4 c flour
1 t dry mustard
1/2 t ground coriander
1 1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
salt & pepper

First, prep your veggies. Cut the tops off of the beets and set them aside. Use a paring knife or a peeler to remove roots, strings, and any rough spots from the beets. Cut them into 8 or 12 pieces each. Place in a large bowl, adding the carrots once you’ve washed, trimmed, and sliced them.

For the beet greens, wash them thoroughly and cut off the stems. Stack the leaves and chop them into 1-inch squares.

Preheat the oven to 400°

Set a pot of water to boil.

Toss the beets and carrots with 1 T olive oil and coarse salt. Spread them in a single layer on a non-stick baking pan and roast at 400° for 15 to 20 minutes, or until they are tender in the center.

Cook the pasta according to package directions. Wash and drain your beans, and if they are hard, throw them into the pasta pot towards the end of cooking.

Meanwhile, make the sauce. Melt the butter, add the garlic, and sizzle it for a moment. Add the beet greens and a pinch of salt, and stir until they are wilted. Cover the pan and simmer the greens until they are fairly tender. Stir in the flour – this will form a big ugly lump, but don’t worry. Once the flour is all moistened, gradually add the milk, stirring constantly. Eventually the greens will be floating in a lump-free sauce. Let this come to a simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened. Turn off the heat, and stir in the Parmesan cheese until melted. Taste the sauce and add salt and pepper as desired.

Once you’ve drained the pasta, return it (and the beans) to the pan. Pour in the sauce and stir until well-combined. Serve with the roasted beets and carrots on top.

Garlic-Rosemary Pasta with Roasted Vegetables
Serves 3-4

1 full sprig of fresh rosemary, minced (about 1 tablespoon)
6 cloves garlic, sliced
2 T butter
2 T flour
1 t dry mustard powder
1 1/2 cups milk
Salt and pepper
1 bunch Bietola (Italian fresh greens, I found them at the farmers’ market) or 12 oz fresh spinach, torn or chopped into bite-size pieces
1 smallish sweet potato, cubed
1/2 a leek, sliced
2 tsp olive oil
14 oz can chickpeas or other beans, rinsed and drained
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
1/2 lb fusili or other short pasta

Preheat the oven to 375°

Boil water for pasta in a large saucepan. Salt it generously and throw in your pasta. When 5 minutes remain for pasta cooking time, add the rinsed and drained beans.

Peel and cube the sweet potato; toss with the leeks in a large bowl with 2 tsp olive oil and a pinch of salt. Spread in an even layer on a baking sheet, and roast for 15 minutes or until the sweet potatoes are tender. Set aside.

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan. Add garlic and rosemary and sizzle for a moment or two. Add the flour and mustard powder, stir for 1 minute, and then gradually pour in the milk, stirring constantly, until smooth. Add salt, pepper, and chopped greens. Cook and stir often until the sauce is simmering and thickened, and the greens are tender.

When the pasta is al dente, drain and return to the pan. Pour the sauce and greens over the pasta, add the sweet potatoes and leeks, and stir well to combine and heat through. Sprinkle each serving with pine nuts.

I made two more batches of Rhubarb Compote. Last time I made it BN had the idea that rosemary might be a good accent. I also had some mint left from my Moroccan dish so I made one batch with rosemary and one with mint. Yum, they are both very good. I was licking the spoons after moving the jam from saucepan to glass storage containers. The accent flavors are very subtle, but they add some extra sophistication to the flavor.  Now I’m wondering about other ideas for flavor additions – a vanilla bean? Cinnamon stick? Cardamom? Lavendar? Citrus zest?

Rhubarb Sauce
Adapted from Martha Stewart

4 cups chopped rhubarb (about 4-5 stalks)
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 tsp salt

Combine the rhubarb, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan and let stand for 10 minutes or until the rhubarb has released some juice. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the rhubarb is thick and jammy. Transfer to glass containers with tight covers, and store refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.

Accent flavors:

Ginger: grate or crush fresh ginger over a small sieve, and press with a spoon to release the juice. Add it off the heat to the finished compote.

Herbs: chop or crush herbs and place in a small metal or glass bowl. Pour a small amount of boiling water over the herbs and let steep while the rhubarb is macerating in the sugar. Strain the liquid into the saucepan and proceed with the recipe.

Whole spices: I have yet to try this, but I think I would just cook the whole spices such as a cinnamon stick or cardamom pods along with the sauce, and then fish them out before transferring the sauce to storage containers.

Russian Vegetable Soup with Bean Bacon Salad

Saturday was beautiful for most of the day. I rode my bike to Hideaway Bakery for a 3-mile walk and then a mid-morning snack with some of my church ladies. It was sunny but cold in the shade. Then I rode my bike to the farmers’ market. After I purchased my veggies I dropped in on EL at her jewelry booth. Back at home I puttered around until it was time to make beet soup for dinner.

Russian Vegetable Soup
Adapted from Healthy Cooking for Two or Just You by Frances Price
Serves 4

“Here’s a low-rent, meatless borscht for hard times in the USA. It will make you brave at very little cost. Serve this peasant soup with a spoonful of light sour cream or yogurt and a slice of coarse rye or pumpernickel bread.”

I love Frances Price. She has such a way with words, and with recipes. Using fresh beets makes this soup a little less “low rent,” a little more fussy, but worth it. And I like being able to use the beet stems and greens along with the beets.

1/2 an onion, chopped
1 T olive oil
1 bunch beets (4 or 5 smallish) about 2 cups diced
1 cup diced new potatoes
1 cup diced carrots
8 oz can tomato sauce
1 t caraway seeds
1 t dried dill weed
1 T brown sugar or honey
2 T cider vinegar or red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
To serve: plain yogurt or sour cream

Note: if you don’t have fresh beets, use a 16 oz can of sliced or diced beets, not pickled. Use 1/2 cup diced celery instead of the stems, and 2 cups shredded cabbage instead of the beet greens. Reduce the water to 3 cups, since the canned beets are in liquid. Don’t add any salt until the end, when you’ve tasted the soup.

Saute the onions in olive oil in a large saucepan. While they are cooking, prep your veggies. Trim the stems and leaves off of the beets, and reserve them in a big bowl of water. If the beets are young you don’t need to peel them, I just use the peeler to scrape off any hairlike roots or blemished bits near the stems. Dice the beets. Wash the greens, and chop the stems and leaves, keeping them in separate bowls.

Once the onions are soft, add the tomato sauce, carrots, potatoes, and beets, with the chopped beet stems, caraway, and dill, plus 4 cups water and 1 t salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low. Cover and cook for 15 minutes.

Add the beet greens, sugar or honey, and vinegar. Bring the soup back to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the greens and vegetables are tender. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot, topped with yogurt or sour cream.

Bean Bacon Salad

My friend JI served this salad to me during a girls’ night during our single days (we each got married a few months apart and were in each other’s weddings.) I think salad is my favorite way to eat bacon. It’s especially good with hearty greens.

Spinach or mixed greens
White beans (cannellini or Great Northern)
Chopped red bell pepper
Chopped red onion
Bacon: cooked, drained, and crumbled (1 slice per person)
Chopped pecans or walnuts, toasted

Dressing (2 servings)
1 T olive oil
1 T cider vinegar
1 T maple syrup
1 t dijon mustard
1/4 t salt
Freshly ground pepper

Combine the dressing ingredients in a medium bowl. Add the onions, bell pepper, and beans, and stir. Let it marinate while you prep the other ingredients. Place a bed of greens on each plate. Spoon the dressing and vegetable mixture over the greens, and sprinkle nuts and bacon on top.